Rebecca Gibb

freelance drinks journalist

Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2010

South Africa: Safari so goodie

Tuesday 31 August

So I’ve finally made it to South Africa after eight years working in the wine industry and this being Africa, day one meant safari.

I’m not sure what I was expecting as I boarded the Big 5 Wine Safari vehicle at Warwick Estate in Stellenbosch but it wasn’t a comparison between a white rhino and Sauvignon Blanc, that’s for sure. But life is full of surprises.

Wrapped in a fuchsia pink blanket to stave off the cold spring day, our tour guide Ivan took us around the wine safari, also known as a vineyard tour.

“Cabernet Sauvignon,” he said “is like a lion. The lion is the king of the jungle. When Cabernet is young, it is aggressive on the palate; as it becomes older, the tannins calm down, just like when a lion ages.”

Hmm, a bit tenuous, but I see what you’re driving at Ivan and I’ve never heard a wine compared to a wild animal before. It’s refreshing for a wine journalist who has seen enough stainless steel tanks and barrels to last a life time.

Sauvignon Blanc…which of the Big 5 safari animals would it be? The white rhino, of course. The link was fresh green grass: the rhino eats it; the wine smells like it.

Cabernet Franc is apparently like an elephant because they both have thick skin and you can keep the wine for a very long time. Warwick does a single varietal Cab Franc, a relative rarity in South Africa, but I couldn’t see any relation to Dumbo or Nelly.

The buffalo is another safari favourite but it’s unpredictable and wild hence the comparison with Pinotage. And last but not least Merlot gets likened to a leopard – because it’s smooth. For wine connoisseurs, it might seem a bit silly but the wine industry needs a bit of fun injected into its rear end. It’s a great way to educate the consumer, link the wine trade with a successful tourism industry -  and make wine seem less elitist.

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New Zealand Pinotage rings alarm bells

Monday 5 April

I can’t stand Pinotage. It smells of rotten meat and stilton, which isn’t attractive. I know I will incur the wrath of the South African wine industry for saying it but I’ve always been taught honesty is the best policy.

Outside of South Africa, I see little reason for producers to make it.  I can understand it’s a signature variety for South Africans and when it comes up in a blind tasting I’m always pleased as you can spot it a mile off.  But with the wide array of varieties on offer around the world, why on earth would you make Pinotage outside of South Africa?

I ask this question as during the Easter weekend, I popped into Ascension Wine Estate in Matakana. I was staying over the road from the winery (at Rosemount B&B, which I highly recommend if you’re ever in the area: gorgeous homestead with a lovely host) and braved the holidaying crowds at the cellar door. What was I thinking of? Easter + cellar door = bun fight.

Not only did they have a Pinotage; they had a Pinotage-based rose! Of course, curiosity got the better of me and I felt impelled to try them to see if that rotten meat/cheesy character was a varietal trait or something South African. It was varietal.  The Bell Ringer Pinotage wasn’t too bad with a bright violet appearance, with red cherry fruit, white pepper and….rotten meat. Unlike most Pinotages I’ve had, it was quite light on the tannin front and had light to medium body. 16.5/20 but it didn’t ring my bell.

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