Quinta do Noval
When you hang out with Jancis Robinson and Fiona Morrison - the lady of Le Pin - chateaux owners open fine wines like this at dinner. Now in his 80s, Jean-Michel Cazes hosted dinner for us at the family's Caf? Lavinale in the hamlet of Bages and had opened some fine, rare Bordeaux before pulling out the 50-year-old Port. With such a long time in bottle, this ruby-style Port had become more tawny in its colour and flavours: all nuts, toffee and plums. It was rather delicate but had become pretty volatile while hte alcohol was rather hot. Still, a real treat at the end of a decadent nigt of drinking.