London-based merchant Bordeaux Index put its-first ever ‘Ten years on (1999) Claret Tasting’ yesterday for the press and customers. As I couldn’t make it to the press tasting, I ended up tasting with the customers. The clientele were immaculately turned out: suited and booted which, made a nice change to us scruffy journos drinking fine wine in our t-shirt and jeans.
I confess I’m no Bordeaux expert but I’ll give you my opinion on the duff wines and stars of the show: the Right Bank was largely disappointing yesterday and they’re not holding up well. The best wine, Ch. Angelus (£850 In Bond) was in magnum, and was unsurprisingly much fresher and alive than the rest in 75cl. Many are past their best with tannins starting to dry out and, there were still some green underripe notes on a couple including Gazin and La Grave a Pomerol.
On the Left Bank, the first growths were the stars – quel surprise – but Palmer was stonking too. Having only ever tried one first growth – Ch. Margaux – this was a real treat. I was blown away by Mouton-Rothschild. It had incredible aromatics of rosemary, black pepper and roast lamb. My notes read ‘AMAZING!!!! Delicate, elegant, silky, with lots of fresh acidity. Unique.’ Not bad hey. And, I quite liked the label too. Each year, Mouton has a different label design and in ’99 it was a ram: I’m an Aries so I guess I’m biased. If anyone fancies buying my case, do send an email!
Approving murmurs surrounded third growth Palmer and at £850 a case In Bond compared to the first growths ranging from £1650-£3500, I’d rather have a few cases of that.
You might’ve head of brettanomyces: a spoilage yeast that produces aromas of manure or elastoplasts. I’m sorry to say second-growths Ch. Rauzan Segla and Gruaud-Larose (at more than £300 a case In Bond) were offenders on the brett front, as well as Haut Bailly. Come on guys, if we’re paying that much for your wine, we don’t expect faults.
Thanks to Bordeaux Index for a treat of a tasting though.
