Since 2008, a 12-bottle case of red wine has been hand-picked by Sydney-based Master of Wine Andrew Caillard to represent the best of the vintage from Gimblett Gravels. He has just been in the tasting room selecting wines for the Annual Vintage Selection for 2016, which will be released later this year but let’s take a look back at last year’s selection, which is still available to be purchased.
On the back of two fantastic vintages, 2015 made it three in a row for Hawke’s Bay.
Having started off cool and a little windy, Father Christmas brought warm, dry conditions to Hawke’s Bay and New Zealand, which continued throughout January and February.
The major cause for concern across the region was the arrival of Cyclone in March Pam but she turned out to be a wet weekend.
While the imminent arrival of rain can force picking decisions on producers, the timing of rain – in short, sharp bursts – followed by windy, cool and drying conditions in 2015 enabled growers to decide for themselves and harvest continued into late April.
The Annual Vintage Selection case includes five Syrahs and seven Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot-based blends. The latter are far from hefty, offering a rather more restrained expression of the Gimblett Gravels. While quality is good to very good, the standard is not as high as it was in 2013 and 2014. The next Annual Vintage Selection will be interesting to contrast with a warmer, more succulent style anticipated.
Cabernet/Merlot blends
Babich Wines Irongate
A rather spicy expression with an intriguing flavour combination – a punnet full of blueberries mixes with paprika. The tannins are well handled, offering the Cabernet Sauvignon (51%) frame for Merlot (30%) to flesh out while Cabernet Franc brings a fine line and pencil lead scents to haunt the mouth on the medium-long finish. 91/100
Babich Wines The Patriarch
One of Babich’s top tier wines, named in memory of Josip Babich, who founded the company in west Auckland in the early 20th century, this is a rather delicate expression on the palate, offering moderate density of fruit without heft. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 22% Malbec, this blend seems to work offering flesh to Cabernet’s bones. There’s also some appetising floral/violet high notes, likely hailing from the Malbec, in addition to the black fruit and oak-derived vanillins. The tannins are fine grained but ripe and there’s a fresh sensation on the conclusion. Still far too young to drink. 90/100
Mission Estate Winery Barrique Reserve
This wine flows across the palate fluidly with some nice depth, offering blackcurrant and blackberry fruit and a hint of pine and exotic spice. After a promising start, the finish is rather disappointing: dry and slightly edgy tannins leave a chewy conclusion. Blend: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot. Aged for 18 months in French oak (27% new). 86/100
Sacred Hill Brokenstone
While the other Bordeaux blends in the AVS selection have led with Cabernet Sauvignon, this Merlot-dominant blend (87%) is more appealing at this early stage. It is richly scented with cloves, cinnamon, fruit cake and sandalwood. Ripe and smooth, it fills the mouth with its plummy fleshiness. Concentrated and satisfying with round, mouthcoating tannins. 92/100
Stonecroft Cabernet Sauvignon
A piquant little number, offering bright black fruits and a hint of mint. This is a taut and linear expression, lacking a bit of flesh on its bones with a rather sappy, drying tannic finish. A little Merlot in the blend would have given some much-needed generosity. 87/100
Te Awa Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
An elegant, mid-weight blend offering supple fruit on the palate and rounded tannins. Fine cedary oak supports the plummy flavours. This shows a lovely concentration of fruit without heaviness on the palate and mouthwatering acidity on the medium-long finish. Approachable now but will continue to evolve well over the next 5-8 years. 90/100
Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet/Merlot
A fragrant and vibrant expression with oak-derived cedar and vanilla-like spice overlaying the black and fruit. Relatively light in body and modest in the concentration department. The fine-grained tannins provide a drying albeit fresh conclusion. Blend: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Aged for 18 months in French oak (35% new). 87/100
Syrah
Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah
The latest release of Le Sol, Craggy Range’s flagship Syrah is intensely purple in the glass. While it is slightly closed right now, there is clearly an intense concentration of fruit in its youthful body. The signature spice that comes with cooler expressions of Syrah is well judged here. Black fruit, cinnamon and exotic spice add to the wine’s intrigue. This is a highly polished, round and expansive Syrah that has an abundance of mouthcoating, appetisingly sticky fine tannins and very long length. Drink 2020-2030. 93/100
Ka Tahi Rangatira Syrah
Softly fruited, medium bodied Syrah with modest concentration of fruit. Sappy, fresh finish with Christmas spices and a touch of herbal flavours lingering on the medium length finish. Nice to see a newcomer in the case, however. 88/100
Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah
Smooth, sumptuous and elegant, this wine fills the mouth with rich blackberry fruit, liquorice, smoked meats, and Christmas spices. Subtle black pepper notes remind us that this is Syrah from a cool climate. Finely judged, mouthcoating tannins provide structure to the fresh, balanced finish. 92/100
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah
A mid-weight peppery expression of Syrah from Trinity Hill with dark fruit and a cedary oak playing the part in the mix. There’s a firm, grippy finish to proceedings. 88/100
Vidal Reserve Syrah
So youthful, this wine is almost raw in its primary redcurrant and blackberry fruit. Overlaid with pepper spice that reminds you that Hawke’s Bay is still a cool climate Syrah region. Tight and a little edgy right now; have patience as there’s depth in this mid-weight Syrah and it needs time to come together. 90/100
•These wines were tasted blind but in the interests of full disclosure, my consultancy company The Drinks Project assists Sacred Hill in the UK.
