New Zealand could follow in Germany’s footsteps

After a three-course dinner, several glasses of wine and some unusual entertainment at the end of Pinot Noir 2010, it was Oz Clarke’s turn to get up and shake up the New Zealand wine industry.

His rhetoric got a standing ovation.  Luckily I was being a conscientious journo and had my pad and pen to hand when he spoke – so here are a few snippets for those of you who weren’t there – and those of you that have fuzzy, boozy memories of the evening.

The point is New Zealand is in danger of shooting itself in the foot if it doesn’t sort its supply-demand balance. We all know this. If it is seen as a sub £5 supplier of Sauvignon Blanc that tarnishes the whole country’s image and its other varieties. Could Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc become the next Liebfraumilch? Let’s hope not.

Oz said: “There’s an ocean of Sauvignon Blanc hitting the shelves in the UK. What’s that got to do with Pinot Noir? Quite a lot.”

“Germany was the leading supplier of wine in the UK in the 1980s. The Brits greedily guzzled it for a few years but the pursuit of great profit ruined their reputation.”

“Less than a generation later, Australia fuelled the British wine revolution with Shiraz and Chardonnay.”

“Aussie Chardonnay became the discount junkie’s paradise. The pursuit of short term profit mutilated Australia’s reputation.”

“Don’t think it could not happen to you, it’s happened twice before in the past 30 years.”

“Consumers will say top quality Pinot Noir [from New Zealand]? That’s where the cheap Sauvignon Blanc comes from. The expensive jewel, the sought after Pinot suddenly looks far too dear.”

We were all thinking it; Oz said it. Honesty spoken with a bit of Oz theatricals thrown in is the best policy.