I can’t stand Pinotage. It smells of rotten meat and stilton, which isn’t attractive. I know I will incur the wrath of the South African wine industry for saying it but I’ve always been taught honesty is the best policy.
Outside of South Africa, I see little reason for producers to make it. I can understand it’s a signature variety for South Africans and when it comes up in a blind tasting I’m always pleased as you can spot it a mile off. But with the wide array of varieties on offer around the world, why on earth would you make Pinotage outside of South Africa?
I ask this question as during the Easter weekend, I popped into Ascension Wine Estate in Matakana. I was staying over the road from the winery (at Rosemount B&B, which I highly recommend if you’re ever in the area: gorgeous homestead with a lovely host) and braved the holidaying crowds at the cellar door. What was I thinking of? Easter + cellar door = bun fight.
Not only did they have a Pinotage; they had a Pinotage-based rose! Of course, curiosity got the better of me and I felt impelled to try them to see if that rotten meat/cheesy character was a varietal trait or something South African. It was varietal. The Bell Ringer Pinotage wasn’t too bad with a bright violet appearance, with red cherry fruit, white pepper and….rotten meat. Unlike most Pinotages I’ve had, it was quite light on the tannin front and had light to medium body. 16.5/20 but it didn’t ring my bell.
