Rioja: the debate

Rioja has traditionally been a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha, given a little oomph by a dash of Mazuelo (a.k.a Carignan) and Graciano. However, more and more producers are now turning out 100% Tempranillo Rioja. Should we be mourning the demise of the blend or is it the way forward?

A few numbers for your first: In 1912, Rioja had 44 varieties planted, dropping to 11 in 1942 and in 2000, just seven. Juan Carlos Sanchez of Vina Ijalba said: “Now we only have seven varieties and three of them make up more than 80% of the mix. Diminishing diversity is a bad thing.”

Tempranillo makes up 80% of all plantings but 25 years ago, there were more Garnacha vines than Tempranillo. Not any more. While all producers at this week’s Rioja forum in London agreed Tempranillo was the region’s finest variety; it didn’t necessarily mean a 100% Tempranillo makes the best wine. Sanchez added: “Tempranillo is one of the best varieties in the world but in my opinion it’s a poor idea that all Rioja should be 100%. We need to diversify.”

Behind the label
The idea of putting the varieties on Rioja labels was proposed – but most shouted it down. Rioja is seen as a brand by many consumers and putting Tempranillo on the label isn’t necessary, in the opinion of both winemakers and UK importers. Melissa Draycott, head of buying for First Quench told producers: “By putting Tempranillo on the label you are perhaps opening the door for even more copycat Riojas. You could lose some of your sales to them. I would like to see more information on your back labels for consumers that are interested though.”

White way
Rioja is red. Out of 63,500ha planted in the region there are only 4,000ha of whites of which 96% are Viura. I think you’ll agree Viura is a fairly neutral and uninspiring variety. Rioja has traditionally aged its whites in oak oxidatively making a wine that is distinctive but a million miles away from what consumers want to drink today. Forget fresh and aromatic cos Rioja ain’t got it. That’s why a raft of new varieties including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Verdejo have been approved last week as blending partners with Viura. My story should be going up today on decanter.com Whatever you think of this change, let’s hope we see a more modern style. It is such a strong brand and should capitalise on its name with whites – and more pinks please too.