Montana’s new Reserve Sauvignon Gris arrived on my doorstep last week. The press release from Pernod Ricard-owned Montana exclaimed it was “inspiring new horizons†with the launch of this fringe variety and I was interested to try it. Unfortunately, I’d be lying if I said I liked it: the wine was confused.
So what is this Sauvignon Gris shananigans? According to Oz Clarke’s book, Grapes and Wines, Sauvignon Gris is a pink mutation of Sauvignon Blanc. Apparently “it gives 20% lower yields than Sauvignon Blanc, one degree more alcohol and a less pungent but spicier aroma.â€
Interestingly, Chateau Smith Haut-Lafite in Pessac Leognan adds 5% of Gris to its delicious Sauvignon Blanc.
This wasn’t Smith Haut-Lafite. It had a real Sauvignon Blanc nose of green pepper (also known as capsicum to you non-Brits) and gooseberry. My brain and palate were ready for a light bodied, zippy Sauvignon but it got a weighty Gris mouthful with lowish acidity. It’s a bit of a Susan Boyle – you think you know what to expect and then find out you were completely wrong. Unfortunately this wasn’t a pleasant surprise.
Another concern is, who is the target market? Is it the Sauvignon Blanc drinker or the Pinot Gris guzzler? They’re very different audiences and this variety seems to please neither camp. And at NZ$23.99, I won’t be urging you to rush out and buy it. But if you want to try a wine with a split personality, this is the one for you.
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