Cape Wine 2012 has been a busy week. I’ve been running around interviewing as many people as possible for Wine Searcher (yes, it has a magazine on the homepage if you didn’t already know, so take a look) including How Apartheid Saved South Africa’s Old Vine Heritage, attending seminars where producers have called for the Wines of Origin scheme to be revised, and finding out that consumers are clueless about Chenin Blanc.
In between seminars and interviews, however, I got time to taste some excellent wines. I’ve been really impressed with the quality across the board. Highlights include the country’s cabernet sauvignons. The best are claret-like in their elegance without the sweet fruit of the new world, giving mid weight wines with fresh natural acidities and a firm but ripe tannic structure. It’s been hard to pick out favorites with many 18.5s out of 20 but I think it has to go to Oldenburg Vineyards’ effort from 2009 for its purity, finesse and elegance.
The Sauvignon-Semillon blends have also proved to be an eye opener. Pessac-Leognan should be afraid if the quality of this week’s wines are anything to go by: Tokara’s 2011 Director’s Reserve from Stellenbosch has to be the highlight in this category. The 2011 is 71% sauvignon blanc and 29% semillon. The semillon is oaked but there’s no new wood. It is a pure and elegant wine with creamy texture in the mouth and a taut, focused lemony finish. Think restraint in terms of aromas with grass, lemon and the struck match sulphidey character you get from good Graves whites. Too good to spit. 19/20
The Swartland has also been turning heads in the past five years and quality of the wines can’t be denied. The Rhone-like blends produced from old bush vines in this Mediterranean climate are original and interesting. I’ll write more on this in my next blog but the picks have to be The Sadie Family’s 2010 Palladius: a white blend of 10, mostly Rhone varieties, sourced from 13 different vineyards. The wine has distinctive and appealing aromas of preserved lemons, salt and nuts. But it’s the ethereal palate, the delightful textural mouthfeel and the fine line of minerally acidity that really sets this wine apart. Having spent the afternoon with winemaker Eben Sadie today and heard the F word more times than I’ve had hot dinners (my mother would have been appalled!), I think it should be described as an F’ing triumph of a wine. 19/20.
My top 10 wines of Cape Wine 2012
- The Sadie Family Palladius 2010, Swartland
- Tokara’ Director’s Reserve(white) 2011, Stellenbosch
- Oldenburg Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Stellenbosch
- Cartology 2011 (92% chenin blanc; 8% semillon), Western Cape
- The Sadie Family Pofadder Cinsaut 2011, Swartland
- Lady May Glenelly 2009, Stellenbosch
- Mullineux Syrah 2010, Swartland
- Vergelegen G.V.B. 2005, Stellenbosch
- Miko Chardonnay 2009, Mont Rochelle, Franschhoek
- Porseleinberg Shiraz 2010, Swartland
Disclaimer: I didn’t taste everything at the show! Also note that my top 10 is in no particular order but every wine selected scored 18.5/20 or higher
