New Zealand is still a bit shaky with another aftershock in Christchurch yesterday. So, you can understand why I felt a little uneasy walking through the vineyards of Murdoch James Estate after being told the estate sits on a fault line.
Unlike many of Martinborough’s vineyards, Murdoch James at 17ha is not an allotment-sized plot in the centre of Martinborough. It sits 7km outside the rural town and some of the vines are even planted… on a hill! They really are living outside the box as well as on two tectonic plates.
Nicola Belsham, sales and marketing manager, says: ‘I guess Martinborough is very small. The vineyards all concentrated on the square and it’s only in the last 10 years people have moved out of Martinborough because of land prices.’ Indeed, owner Roger Fraser bought his first six acres of land in central Martinborough for $36,000 in 1986 and sold it for $1.3 million. Not a bad return on investment.
Roger comes from Paeroa (as in the drink Lemon & Paeroa…mmm, I lurve the dry L&P) but his beverage of choice is certainly not a carbonated drink. He was the first to plant Syrah in Martinborough and people thought he was mad but the proof is in the pudding. The 2008 Saleyards Syrah is lean and delicate with just 13% alchol and a peppery spice to the fruit.
While the wines all show a delicacy and balance, the star of the tasting is the 2001 Cabernet Franc. Their take on the Loire’s red variety is exceptional with jalapeno pepper, herbal notes and HB pencil lead aromas. It is still incredibly youthful and dances lightly across the palate with ripe structured tannins. It’s a great example proving New World wines aren’t just for drinking young.
